June 2013: The Kedarnath saga

Kedarnath or Shree Kedarnath as it is reverentially addressed by the locals, is amongst the four Hindu sacred shrines located in Higher Himalayan region of Uttarakhand; others being Badrinath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri. Not that this region has only Hindu shrines; there is Hemkund Sahib that is revered by Sikhs. Then the region also houses the Valley of Flowers, Adi Kailash, and Auli, and major portion of the route to the sacred Kailash – Mansarovar also passes through the state.

These destinations attract people from across the nation, and abroad in large numbers. Though pilgrims constitute the majority, there are also skiers, mountaineers, trekkers, adventurers, and nature lovers in large numbers. The timing of their visit to the region is however constrained by accessibility as located in the Higher Himalayan region these destinations are under thick cover of snow during the winter season, and can be assessed after the melting of snow in April – May. The timing of opening of the shires is  however not dependent solely on accessibility, and is decided by customary rituals well in advance, and once decided the shrines open only on the due date and time, irrespective of prevailing weather conditions.

The shrines generally remain open between April – May, and September – October. This overlaps with the monsoon period, mid-June – mid-September, during which the region experiences particularly heavy rainfall resulting is frequent disruption of surface connectivity due to landslide, bank erosion, flash flood, and cloudburst incidences. The visitors therefore prefer the beginning, or end of the Yatra season, the duration for which the shrines are open. These periods; May – June, and September – October also coincide with summer holidays in schools, and collages, and Dushera – Durga Pooja – Deepawali holidays respectively, and therefore pilgrimage is generally at its peal during these times.

In 2013 the winters were particularly cold, and the higher reaches experienced heavy snowfall all through, and the same continued till March. Even though the shrines opened late by around a fortnight in 2013, snow was present in large quantities, and the snow on the pedestrian track between Gaurikund and Shree Kedarnath had to be cleared manually to make way for pilgrims to the holy shrine that opened formally on May 14.  Amongst the other shrines Badrinath opened on May 16 while Gangotri, and Yamunotri opened on May 13. Presence of fresh snow around the trek route was looked upon by the pilgrims as a bonus bestowed upon His devotees by Shree Kedarnath.

Late opening of the shrine shortened the window of opportunity in the relatively convenient pre-monsoon phase of the pilgrimage which resulted is heavy rush of pilgrims, and tourists, and there was above average human presence in almost all the destinations.

Though coming over early to evade the fury of monsoonal rains, the pilgrims were surprised by untimely heavy rains towards the end of the first fortnight of June, that had started even before formal acknowledgement of the arrival of the monsoon. At first the rains were considered as resulting from western disturbances that generally are short-lived weather phenomenon. Everyone around thus contemplated weather to improve in a day or two. It was however not a transient weather condition, and rains ceased to stop. This led to the realisation that the monsoon had actually reached the state, and that too almost a week in advance.

Build up of monsoonal rains is generally gradual, and the showers are not particularly heavy right in the beginning. So the general perception foresaw weather to clear soon. None had the realisation that the monsoonal winds had actually confronted the Westerlies, and it was raining heavily not just in Shree Kedarnath or Mandakini valley but all across the state.

The higher reaches in the Himalaya, particularly the Alpine zone or bugyal as these are identified by the locals, in which Shree Kedarnath is located, generally do not receive heavy rains, and major portion of the precipitation is received in the form of snow. It was however different in 2013, and not just Shree Kedarnath but the higher reaches of the Alpine zone all through the state were  receiving continuous, and particularly heavy rains.

The impact of the raindrops started to melt the fresh snow that was abundantly available on the surrounding hill slopes. The melt water soared the volume of surface flow, and the discharge, and level of the hill streams started to rise together with the roar of Mandakini.

Continuous rains led to sudden drop in temperature and it became almost chilling, particularly in the higher reaches around Rambara, Garurchatti, and Shree Kedarnath. Coming from particularly hot regions in the plains, most pilgrims were thus caught unprepared.

Entire track route from Gaurikund to Shree Kedarnath became slushy as water flowing down from upper slopes brought  a lot of soil, rocks and rubble on the track. This together with continuing  rains severely slowed the pace of movement. Battered by severe cold and rain large number of pilgrims took shelter en route wherever they could manage to find accommodation; Gaurikund, Bhimbali, Rambara, or Shree Kedarnath.

There were major surprises for those who had planned their visit meticulously, and painstakingly. Ponies, and mules that ferried pilgrims on the pedestrian track between Gaurikund, and Kedarnath were not operating as the Uttarakhand High Court had temporarily suspended their operation on the issue of sanitation on the pedestrian route. Moreover routine helicopter service from Guptakashi or Phata to Kedarnath was suspended due to continuous rainfall resulting in poor visibility.

Having come so far these people could not however cancel their plan of in personal attendance with Shree Kedarnath, and that would not have been auspicious. So they rescheduled their itinerary; cancelled reservations and bookings, made fresh bookings, and adjusted payments or managed refunds where possible.

Negotiating the arduous trek amid uninterrupted heavy rains, ground heavily littered with slush, mud, and debris, and torrents crossing at many places in between was however not easy. So the journey that could have been complete in a few hours by chopper ride or in a day on mule back was extended to three to four days.

All this resulted in particularly heavy human congregation in the Mandakini valley, and any structure that could accommodate humans was overcrowded at almost all the places; Sonprayag, Gaurikund, Rambara, Bhimbali and Shree Kedarnath. Those who could manage a comfortable place to stay overnight at Shree Kedarnath or Gaurikund considered themselves lucky.

Those who had reached Shree Kedarnath were settling down, and planning the darshan, and return journey while those on the way were still contemplating if they would be able to have dharshan, and get back tomorrow. Late in the evening of June 16, 2013 Dudhganga that meets Mandakini at the very entrance of Shree Kedarnath suddenly brought down huge volume of debris, and blocked the course of Mandakini. This resulted in impoundment of water along Mandakini, and with build up of hydrostatic pressure the embankment on the left bank of the Mandakini to the NW of the main shrine gave way. With this the abandoned channel of Saraswati to the east of Kedarnath became active.

Some people were also washed off during this incidence from Kedarnath in the evening of June 16, 2013. Sankaracharya Samadhi, Jal Nigam guest house, and Bharat Seva Sangh Ashram were also washed off simultaneously. With water flowing through Saraswati, Shree Kedarnath was thus water locked.

Rising level of water behind the debris brought down by Dudhganga forced the barrier to give way, and the impounded water rushed roaring along the steep slope past Garurchatti. The loud sound caused by the movement of rocks, boulders, and others being taken along by floodwaters reverberated all through the narrow valley, and everyone around was sure of something unpleasant having taken place.

What actually had transpired was however beyond anyone’s wildest imagination; the flood event completely washed off Rambara and devastated Gaurikund. All connectivity with the area was simultaneously snapped. General information that the outer world had was limited to the message received over the Police wireless networking the evening of June 16 – around 30-40 persons washed off together with some parked vehicles from Gaurikund.

Traumatised by this incidence, pilgrims, and others came out amid heavy rain, and gathered in the proximity of the holy shrine. Numbers really consoled, as also reassuring words even from strangers. Particularly consoling were the words of the priests who reassured people that Baba Kedarnath would not be harsh on His devotees. Moreover their long experience assured them of the safety of the area around the shrine.

Though in open, and being battered by cold winds and rain, many engaged in bhajans, and all prayed for the safety of their families, and dear ones. With the passage of time temperature dropped, and the breeze started to bite. So,  contemplating the worst to have been over, one by one people started to move back to their rooms so as to rest, sleep, and prepare for the next day.

The recipe of the worst disaster was however getting garnished higher up, to the northwest of the shrine where the level of the Chorabari Tal was rising fast as the rainwater from the mountains to the north was flowing in in large volumes. With glacier recession the lake had a weak moraine barrier that could not withstand mounting hydrostatic pressure and  ultimately gave way around 7 AM on June 17, 2013.

With this the water impounded in the lake destabilised  huge volume of glacial boulders, and outwash material, and rushed downslope at great speed. This debris choked the course of Mandakini, and the flow of the debris laden water  was diverted towards the temple township. Fast flowing debris, and boulder laden water ravaged whatever came in its path. Structures were washed off, devastated and damaged. Thick pile of debris, and boulders was deposited everywhere as also in ravaged buildings.

Most people were awake at the time of this incidence. Those who had to leave both from, and for Shree Kedarnath were on the pedestrian route. Most of those at Shree Kedarnath were either lined up for darshan or were somewhere around the shrine. They tried their level best to outrun the water but the unlucky ones were outpaced; either carried off by the floodwaters or buried under thick pile of debris.

People who survived the ordeal in, and around the temple, and at other places narrated vivid stories-  how water overwhelmed the township with nowhere to look for shelter from fast current of the debris laden water, and how they managed to hang on,  and survive. There was absolutely no warning, and most people were taken by surprise, and had no time to respond.

Debris laden water gushed downstream along  high-gradient channel of Mandakini, breached the bank at many places, and carried away whatever came in its way. Besides Kedarnath this event caused devastation in Gaurikund, Sonprayag and other places.

Apart from the devastated habitations the survivors were stranded at various places on the pedestrian track major portion of which was breached and washed away. It was still raining and weather was quite cold. Apart from the drenched and soiled clothes on their bodies all personal belongings were lost in the flood. Most survivors thus did not have food, shelter and clothes. Everyone was traumatized and hoped to be rescued soon.

Having received the message over Police wireless network in the evening of  June 16, 2013 the outside world was no doubt aware of the emergency situation but the seriousness of the situation was realized only after the Air Force chopper made the first landing at Kedarnath.

The relief and rescue that followed was full of challenges. Most survivors were stranded on stray stretches of the washed off pedestrian track. Valley being extremely narrow with people  stranded over small stretches close to the valley walls was a peculiar situation where even providing food, and water became a major challenge.

There were no place to land in the vicinity of the pedestrian track unless the ground was cleared after some days around Bhimbali. The bravehearts of Air Force literally defied all SOPs, and made risky landings over the pedestrian track to evacuate the survivors.

Even though inducted on June 18 itself,  going was not smooth for ground search and rescue parties. They had to trek along the river bed, and look for opportunities of climbing upslope to reach the stranded persons.

One by one, with great effort the survivors were brought to Bhimbali from where they were airlifted to Guptakashi or Gauchar.

With humanitarian relief, and evacuation efforts gaining momentum, vivid stories of human suffering, death, and destruction started to unfold.

Despite best efforts evacuation could only be completed on June 23, 2013.

Rescue operations were however not risk free, and 3 choppers crashed during rescue operations. 48 persons engaged in rescue operations including 5 of IAF, 9 of NDRF, 6 of ITBP and 28 of State Police, Administration, Forest and Civil Aviation lost their lives while engaged in rescue operations.